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It’s interesting to track the development of plants in the nursery business. As a plant buyer you often hear the buzz a year or two before a plant is actually seen. Then you see it at a nursery’s open house or at a trade show. By the next spring a few plants are available to garden centres. Sometimes five years can pass before the plant becomes a staple item or before it fades away and joins the ranks of the also-rans.
It appears that Sambucus nigra ‘Eva,’ the Black Lace Elderberry, has become a “staple” in just a few years. Coming out as purple foliage plants are becoming a very hot item in gardens Black Lace has much more going for it than its attractive, finely-cut dark purple-black leaves.
And that foliage really is approaching black. It looks somewhat like a very dark form of cut leaf Japanese maple, and because it will tolerate the bright sun and wind Black Lace is an excellent alternative for frustrated Okanagan gardeners who love the Acer palmatum dissectum but have finally given up after burning them repeatedly in their gardens in July and August.
You can treat the plant as a woody shrub or a perennial. Leave it alone and it will grow up to 2.5 metres tall, but it might look a bit rangy after a few years. Lightly pruning it back through the spring and early summer will give
Or you could cut it back hard every spring as you do with Buddleia davidii (Butterfly Bush) and it will grow back from its roots to form a small one to 1.5 metre shrub by midsummer.
If the plant only produced foliage it would be most garden worthy. But, Black Lace also blooms. Beginning in late June the plant is topped by clusters of pink flowers which emit a light lemony scent. After the blooms are done small dark black berries emerge. These berries attract birds and reportedly make an excellent jelly.
Give Black Lace a location where it can get lots of bright sun, to make the foliage colour stand out. Initially it needs regular moisture, so mix a good amount of organic matter into the soil and pay attention to watering the first season or two. After it’s established it can tolerate drier soils.
Black Lace is very hardy; it’s rated to Zone 4, so it will tolerate winter temperatures down to -28 deg. C. You could increase its hardiness further by mulching heavily around its roots before winter.
The problem facing the gardener is deciding where to use Black Lace in the garden. Mass them together in a large shrub border for an outstanding screen or hedge effect that would likely be filled with birds in the fall. Or use it as a single specimen to draw your eye further along the border. Plant it in a large decorative container on a deck or patio. Use it alongside a bog or a pond, because like most Sambucus it will tolerate wet soils.
Is Black Lace the perfect plant? If you love dark foliage in the garden it most certainly comes close. |
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| Posted by Art Knapp's Plantland at | | | |
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I know that it happens on a regular basis in other parts of the country, but the snowfall on April 19 in the valley was, to say the least, surreal. April 19 in the Okanagan is all about magnolias and forsythia blooming, tulips and daffodils lighting up flower beds, cutting the lawn for the second time this spring. It’s not about waking up to see snow blanketing the flower beds you just weeded the day before.
If you think it was bad here consider the poor gardeners in Nanaimo. On Vancouver Island April 19 means rhododendrons and flowering cherries in bloom, with spring in full flight and the garden approaching the peak of mid-spring glory. They had to endure 24 centimeters of snow that day. Not 4 cm. like we received, but 24 cm. of wet and heavy snow deposited onto their tulips and daffodils.
At the garden centre that day I think we were in shock. None of us had ever seen that much snow on the ground
that late in the spring. Snow on the branches of blooming forsythia just didn’t compute in my mind as I drove to work. I was glad I still hadn’t taken the studded winter tires off my truck; I needed them that morning on the highway to navigate the slush.
I have written a column about monochromatic gardens, specifically the white garden our friends built in Summerland several years ago. April 19 produced white gardens like no other. I wondered late in the day after the snow finally melted if you could construct a white garden built completely of plants that had “snow” in their common or cultivar name. I set out to research the possibilities and the answer is yes!
Every garden needs trees; they’re the bones of the landscape. Malus ‘Springsnow’ and Styrax japonica ‘Snow Charm are two small flowering trees that would be perfect. And then there’s Chionanthus virginicus. It’s know commonly as Fringe Flower, but it’s other lesser known moniker is the Snowflower.
If you had an arbour or a trellis that needed a vine Clematis ‘Snow Queen’ is the obvious choice. Your shrub palette may be somewhat limited, but Spirea nipponica ‘Snowmound’ would give you some spring colour from the small white blooms. Symphoricarpos albus, the Snowberry, would give the garden large white berries through the fall and winter.
There is no shortage of perennials for the “snow garden.” Shady spots can be filled nicely with Hostas such as ‘Snow Cap,’ ‘Snowmound’ and ‘Snowbound’ and then there’s the Astilbe ‘Snowdrift’ and Tradescantia ‘Snowcap.’ Polemonium ‘Snow and Sapphire’ could withstand some shade as well.
Out in the sunnier areas Physostegia ‘Summer Snow’ would produce tall spikes of white blooms, along with Salvia ‘Snowhill.’ The trumpet-shaped flowers of Incarvillea ‘Snowtop’ are attractive too.
Looking for groundcover for a slope? Look no further than Cerastium tomentosum, or Snow-in-summer. The grey foliage is covered with a carpet of white blossoms and it does indeed look like snow in summer.
Finally, there is one plant which looks just fine surrounded by snow, unlike the forsythia. The galanthus, or snowdrop, bulbs could care less if it snows on their delicate blossoms. They soldier on, just as we will as we wait for the real spring to arrive |
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| Posted by Art Knapp's Plantland at | | | |
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I’ve always admired plants that look better when they have no leaves or flowers. Any plant can solicit attention when it’s covered with pink and white/green and yellow variegated, chartreuse, burgundy, serrated, dissected or twisted foliage. And, of course, we all like flowers, the bigger the better.
But plants that grab your attention in the dead of winter when there are no gaudy leaves or flirtatious flowers to attract us, those are plants that are worth noticing.
One such plant is Corylus avellana ‘Contorta,’ more commonly known as Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick. Corylus is the genus that gives us the ornamental filbert or hazelnut. Personally I think the filbert finds its highest form when it’s turned into the wonderful liqueur Frangelico, but the contorted form of the avellana species is a wonder in its own right.
The branching of this shrub is amazing. The entire plant consists of contorted and spiraling branches, beginning at the base and continuing right up to the ends. It’s a spectacular sight in the winter garden, especially when the branches are edged with a light snowfall and backlit by late winter sun.
At first glance you’d think that such a plant is a laboratory creation, or a result of misguided chemical use in the garden. Indeed, I have seen plants subjected to drift from herbicides that twist in a similar fashion.
Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ is not manufactured however. It was found in a hedgerow, those lengthy and tall barricades of plants found in Europe. Filberts are used for such purposes in England, and this is where the plant was spotted back in the mid-1800’s.
The plant will grow slowly to nearly three metres tall, but it will take many years to achieve that height. Unlike the species it does not produce any fruit. Because it’s grafted onto rootstock of the species it tends to sucker from the base. Remove them as they occur, or the species will overtake the cultivar and you’ll have a filbert bush with a contorted cousin somewhere in the middle.
The Contorted Filbert also looks spectacular right about now when the delicate golden-yellow catkins hang from the stems, quaking in the slightest breeze. These are the male flowers; the female blooms must be seen up close as they emerge from the buds.
Another unusual aspect of this plant is that when the leaves emerge they are also twisted. It’s not the most attractive look. In fact, to me they look like they’ve been attacked by leaf rollers but that’s just my opinion. I’ll leave it to you to form your own conclusion.
In the past few years another cultivar has found its way into garden centres. ‘Red Majestic’ has foliage which emerges a beautiful reddish-purple. In the fall the leaves turn to a burnt burgundy colour and when they drop the catkins are not yellow, but purple.
If you’re wondering where the common name originated, Harry Lauder was a very popular Scottish entertainer, who carried his trademark contorted walking stick with him on stage. |
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| Posted by Art Knapp's Plantland at | | | |
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Despite last Monday’s snowfall the ‘Northern Gold’ forsythia in my garden is now in full bloom. It wasn’t the first shrub to show colour however. The Daphne mezereum, February Daphne, beat it by about two weeks.
The bright rosy-purple blooms began to emerge back in March and when I spotted them I was immediately there on my knees inhaling the sweetly fragrant blooms. A few sprigs cut off and brought indoors are enough to charge an entire room with perfume.
Daphne has a reputation as a shrub that is difficult to propagate. D. mezereum is not too amenable to increasing its numbers by cuttings, but the seed sows readily in fertile ground. The bright red seeds are produced in summer and it seems that any which fall off at that time germinate without fail. Indeed, my plant is a seedling of Mom’s plant, which is a seedling of the original plant I remember admiring as a small child. I recall three or four of my co-workers also received seedlings at the same time as I did. The seeds, by the way, are poisonous.
Daphne cneorum, the Rock Daphne, is the most well-known species. The entire nursery in our garden centre is bathed in its fragrance later in April when they bloom. It makes a wonderful small flowering shrub, planted in a location where you can enjoy its fragrance as you walk by.
They are, however, one of those shrubs which do not accommodate you, the gardener. You must bend to its whims and desires or else it will not survive. They are quite particular about soil. It must be well-drained, moist, with nearly neutral pH and it should contain some organic matter.
Daphne cneorum will tolerate sun if the soil conditions are right. They respond well to a light shearing after blooming. This will produce a second lighter flush of blooms and keep the centre from going bare.
One thing you must know about Rock Daphne is that they are “high risk and high reward.” They will grow happily for years and then suddenly, usually right after flowering, they will collapse and die. By suddenly I mean almost overnight. One day green, and the next, brown.
But, they are decidedly wonderful when they’re in full bloom, a carpet of rosy-pink clusters of bloom with that incredible fragrance. Like I said, high risk and high reward. Daphne x burkwoodi ‘Carol Mackie’ is an attractive hybrid variety which sports delicate cream edges to the green foliage and fragrant light pink flowers. It grows up to about three feet high.
Daphne caucasica is one of the parents of the burkwoodi cross. It’s a deciduous shrub, growing to about five feet high. One of its best features is that it keeps throwing out fragrant white clusters of bloom throughout the spring and summer, not just in April.
Even the best of gardeners have endured a sudden daphne collapse, so don’t feel poorly when it happens to you. Enjoy them while you have them. Take deep breaths of their blooms and don’t dwell on the fact that they will surely perish one day. |
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| Posted by Art Knapp's Plantland at | | | |
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I have always had a love/hate relationship with trees of the legume family. Legumes are plants which have the ability to fix nitrogen from the air. Peas and beans are the best-known examples of a legume but there are many.
There are some excellent trees in the legume family and I’ll expand on their many virtues later in this column. Without exception they’re tough, drought-tolerant, disease and pest resistant and very well-adapted to Okanagan growing conditions.
But they can be a hard sell in the retail garden centre for the simple reason that they don’t have those beautiful classic shade tree canopies as a young specimen. Maples, dogwoods, birch, hawthorns look like miniature versions of their mature selves in a seven or a ten gallon container. Legume trees of a similar size could be best described as “gangling,” like a teenager whose co-ordination hasn’t caught up with their most recent growth spurt.
If you can look past the adolescent awkwardness and envision the tree as a mature adult you’ll find some wonderful choices for Okanagan gardens. Here are some of my favourites:
Koelreuteria paniculata (Golden Rain Tree)-This tree is covered with large clusters of golden yellow flowers in July and August, and then they fall and cover the ground like a golden rain shower. In fall seed pods form which look like tiny Japanese lanterns, rattling gently in the wind throughout the winter. An exquisite tree that matures at about 25-30 feet.
Robinia pseudoacacia 'Purple Robe'-The Black Locust has a bad reputation as a weed tree. True, the species does find its way around due to its ability to self-seed and grow almost anywhere. But look closely at them. Mature trees have incredible deeply furrowed bark and when the white clusters of blooms appear in May entire neighbourhoods bask in the fragrance. ‘Purple Robe’ is less aggressive, with fewer seed pods than the species and more compact growing (about 40 feet). Its blooms are purple, hanging in clusters like those of the wisteria.
Cercis canadensis (Eastern Redbud)-Any tree that flowers from bare wood before the leaves emerge is special. The redbud creates a haze of rosy purple blooms in April and then the heart-shaped foliage emerges to complete the scene. The cultivar ‘Forest Pansy’ has deep purple foliage which lightens somewhat in the summer heat. This tree is slow growing to about 25 feet high and wide.
Gleditsia triacanthos (Honey Locust)-It may be a common tree in many areas, but it grows so well, with few problems and casts such a lovely, light shade on a hot summer afternoon. ‘Sunburst’ is by far the favourite cultivar. Its new foliage emerges yellow before maturing to a light green. It matures at 30 to 35 feet high with a broadly pyramidal canopy.
Sophora japonica (Japanese Pagoda Tree)-Rarely seen in landscapes, but a beautiful tree that features creamy white blooms in July and August and small leaves that produce a nice dappled shade. Sophora is adaptable to most growing locations; in Summerland there is a thriving specimen in the parking lot on the south side of the municipal building where temperatures likely hit 40 deg. C in mid-summer. |
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| Posted by Art Knapp's Plantland at | | | |
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| Homeowners harbour misconceptions about grass clippings, thatch and fertilizers, and the combined effects of all three. There is a lingering belief that clippings cause thatch if they’re not removed during mowing. Nitrogen is poured onto lawns each spring as we search for the perfect green oasis to surround our homes.
For years we felt that we had to bag up our grass clippings and haul them away to the landfill. Clippings were unsightly on the lawn and if not taken away they would build up and lead to the development of thatch. It just isn’t so.
The best way to approach grass clippings is to look at them as beneficial to your lawn. Clippings contain nutrients which lawns can use. Because they have a high water content they dry quickly and are rapidly broken down by fungi and bacteria in the soil, releasing the nutrients to do their work for the growing lawn. In the end you will need less fertilizer to keep your lawn looking good as clippings left on the lawn contain about 4% of the total amount of nitrogen needed by healthy lawns.
Grass clippings don’t cause thatch, that layer of living and dead plant tissue which lays on the soil surface. Thatch might look like grass clippings but it isn’t. It’s actually components of grass roots and it’s caused by too much nitrogen and too much water. When the thatch layer gets too thick it blocks water and air from reaching the soil below and stresses the grass blades above.
A healthy lawn will have some thatch at root level and it’s a good thing. It shades the roots and acts as mulch, keeping moisture at soil level.
If you think grass clippings on the lawn are causing you grief you’re probably not cutting it often enough. The golden rule of lawn care is to never cut more than one-third of the lawn height. If you do this the clippings that are produced are very small and decompose much more rapidly. A mulching mower makes the clippings even smaller by circulating them within the mower deck and cutting them over and over again.
More fertilizer equals more mowing. It’s a very simple equation. Too much nitrogen causes the lawn to grow too fast for its own health and forces you to mow more often. Use a fertilizer which has at least half of its nitrogen in slow release form. You’ll see much more even results over a longer period of time and there will less likelihood of thatch build-up.
If handled properly grass clippings can be a great benefit to your lawn, so don’t bag them up. Cut your lawn more frequently and let the clippings lie. |
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| Posted by Art Knapp's Plantland at | | | |
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I must admit that my eyes begin to glaze over sometimes when I see the avalanche of new plants that come out each year. It's hard for us in the horticultural trade to keep up, I don’t know how you gardeners stay informed about the latest burgundy shade of million bells, the new and improved hosta or the very chic, must-have dwarf Weigela.
When the Perennial Plant Association announces their Perennial Plant of the Year, however, I do pay closer attention. Why? Because their choices are always good. Past winners include Calamagrostis acutiflora 'Karl Foerster' (Feather Reed Grass), Leucanthemum (Shasta Daisy) 'Becky,' Rudbeckia 'Goldsturm' and Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage). These are all great performers in the garden that continue to impress gardeners all over North America.
I haven’t been a big fan of perennial geraniums over the years and I’ve tried various types with limited success. They seem to grow well initially but then fade away over time. The one exception in my garden has been the so-called groundcover Geranium cantabrigiense 'Biokovo.' This one is so successful I need to cut it back twice a year!
I’d love to hear from any of you who are perennial geranium enthusiasts. Let me know which types have grown well for you as I’m always looking for feedback straight from your garden.
The 2008 Perennial Plant of the Year is the perennial geranium 'Rozanne' and like its predecessors it has a lot to offer the gardener looking for a hardy perennial which has appeal over a long period of time.
Like so many other good plants 'Rozanne' came about as a chance hybrid in someone’s garden, Rozanne and Donald Waterer’s garden in Somerset, England actually. A natural cross between G. himalayense and G. wallichianum 'Buxton’s Variety' was noted by the owners back in 1989, and the rest, as they say, is history.
The outstanding feature of 'Rozanne' is its ability to bloom prolifically the first season and its long flowering period, from June through to October, unheard of with most geranium cultivars. The precocious nature occurs because the plant does not produce seeds. Without the hormonal urge to develop seeds the plant continues to produce new flower buds.
It also doesn’t need a cold period, as many perennials do, to flower so it gets off to an early start, producing a steady supply of large, violet-blue flowers about 6 cm across. The foliage is a deeply cut deep green, lightly marbled with chartreuse. In the fall the leaves turn a pleasing bronze colour.
'Rozanne' will grow 50 to 60 cm high and wide. It would make a terrific mid-border plant in a mixed shrub and perennial bed, and given its long blooming period why not try it in a container on your deck?
It’s hardy to Zone 5, so in the colder areas of the valley winter mulch would be a good idea.
For more information about 'Rozanne' and past very "garden worthy" Perennials of the Year visit the association’s website at www.perennialplant.org |
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| Posted by Art Knapp's Plantland at | | | |
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Depending on where you are located, if you listen carefully your garden might be beckoning you to come outside and play. It’s time to take the tools down from the garage wall, to inflate the tire on the wheelbarrow, to sharpen the pruners and to start spring cleaning.
A word of caution; don’t try to complete this task all in one day! You’ll feel pain the next day from muscles you forgot you had, so take a measured approach and work until you feel fatigued. Hang up the tools and start fresh the next day.
The list of tasks starts with removing any winter mulch that you laid on beds last fall. This allows the sunshine to warm up the soil and prevents plants from growing too quickly under the cover of warm mulch, only to be damaged by frosts once the mulch is removed.
Any leaves and assorted debris can be raked off the soil at that time, and then you can do the same job on your lawn. If you have a compost bin now is the time to harvest the completed product to spread onto exposed soil in flower beds and vegetable gardens. The space thus created can be filled by the mulch and leaves you’ve just collected.
Depending on the size of your garden this could be enough for day one. If you didn’t do so last fall perennials stems could be cut down and disposed of, and while you’re doing that check the condition of the plants and decide whether it’s time to divide and re-plant.
Late spring or summer blooming perennials like daylilies, Shasta daisies, nepeta, hostas and astilbe could be dug up and split as soon as the soil has warmed up a bit.
Pruning is the next step and in March our phones at the garden centre are ringing with customer’s questions about how and when. Different plants have different needs, and the timing varies as well, depending mainly on when the plant flowers. If you’re not sure how to proceed drop in or call your local garden centre, or sit down at your computer and go to www.plantamnesty.org. This Seattle-based organization provides some of the best and most entertaining pruning advice found on the internet.
Once the beds are cleaned out and the plants are pruned if necessary, think about fertilizing. Established plants eventually deplete the nutrients in soils and they need an annual application of something to keep them happy. Whether it’s your own compost, an organic or a synthetic fertilizer it should be applied and scratched into the soil around and between plants. Don’t use too much and use something specifically for the plants you’re applying it to.
Finally, while you’re out there take a critical look at plants that didn’t perform well last year, or haven’t in many years. Is it time to move, or even replace them? Ditch the sentimentality, unless it’s a very special plant, and use the newly-created space to plant something new and exciting. Garden centres will be filling up with all kinds of great choices very shortly.
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| Posted by Art Knapp's Plantland at | | | |
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Vegetable gardens are "in" again. If you want to know exactly what goes into your vegetables and reduce the "food miles" your carrots travel to the distance between your kitchen and the vegetable patch, the solution is simple, grow your own!
If you've never grown a vegetable garden and your property doesn’t even have a designated spot, location is everything. It will make all the difference between a garden full of thriving plants and one that continually struggles.
The ideal vegetable garden site would be level, with good drainage and full sunlight all day. Air circulation would be good and the soil would be dark, loose and fertile.
Since this type of site only exists on those gardening shows on television (where the hosts never have dirt on their hands or their clothes), let’s explore how you can make a good vegetable garden out of less than ideal conditions.
Now is a good time to evaluate your property for sites where the snow lingers and water drains poorly. Such areas will take longer to warm up in the spring. Ideally a gently sloping hillside with southern exposure will warm up and drain quickly and receive the maximum amount of sunlight through the growing season.
Areas that have soggy soil long after a rain are not good candidates. Clay soils will not produce bountiful crops of vegetables and root crops will struggle to penetrate them. If there are no alternative sites work plenty of organic matter into the soil to improve drainage and increase fertility.
Trees and shrubs do not make good companions for vegetable gardens. Trees in particular, with their extensive root systems, will rob nutrients and moisture from the soil. And at the risk of pointing out the obvious, trees and shrubs planted on the south or west side of a vegetable garden will produce shade in the afternoon.
Here’s an instance where weed growth is a good thing. An area that supports a healthy, lush weed population likely has decent, not deep rich loamy soil, but decent soil. If not even a weed will grow, don’t expect a bumper crop of tomatoes from that soil either.
How far away is the site from the nearest water supply? I’m at an age where I no longer enjoy dragging hoses around and I like an easy-to-use watering system that is efficient. Trying to water a vegetable garden with an overhead sprinkler or by hand is an exercise in frustration. Plan to install a soaker hose or emitter system that can be turned on at the tap or hooked into an automatic timer. They’re easy to install and maintain and not expensive.
Finally, how far is the potential site away from your kitchen? I know it’s much closer than the Imperial Valley in California or Mexico, but the closer your vegetable garden is to the back door the more you will use those fresh tomatoes, carrots, potatoes and peas. If the only plausible spot is at the very far end of your property, enjoy the stroll. Make it a pleasant one by planting plenty of flowers along the way. Put a bench into the garden and perhaps a fountain to provide a resting place. Don’t linger too long though; produce always tastes best when it’s cooked right after harvest.
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| Posted by Art Knapp's Plantland at | | | |
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What is your definition of a classic? It depends, I guess, on what it’s being referred to. A classic song is one that stirs emotions and memories, or gets your feet moving. You can watch a classic movie several times and enjoy it on a new level with each viewing. Webster’s defines classic as “belonging in a certain category of excellence; having a lasting artistic worth.”
With 2007 being the 75th anniversary of the All-America Selections the word classic was applied by the organization to flowers and vegetables. The AAS awarded the classic designation to four flower varieties and one vegetable. Out of the hundreds of varieties that have held the All-America Selection title over the past 75 years, these five were deemed worthy of praise and, as Webster says, “belong in a certain category of excellence.”
It’s hard to argue that a large, beefsteak-type tomato that produces early in the season and has good disease resistance isn’t a classic. ‘Big Beef’ was introduced in 1994 and has been producing 8 to 12 ounce fruits on plants of outstanding vigour ever since. The same breeder is also responsible for ‘Celebrity’ and ‘Husky Gold’ tomatoes, two other AAS winners.
If you’ve never grown annual dianthus in your garden, they really are gems. ‘Ideal Violet’ earns its designation as a classic because of its heat and cold tolerance. Bred in southern France this dianthus is a cross between Dianthus chinensis (the old-fashioned China Pink) and Dianthus barbatus (the equally old-fashioned Sweet William). The breeder noticed that the plants endured cold temperatures early and late in the season, while continuing to bloom through the baking heat of summer. Growing a foot high and wide ‘Ideal Violet’ is covered with single violet blooms for months.
Gardeners are familiar with the star pattern that is found on many types of bedding petunias, but back in 1988 it was new territory. The problem was that the star didn’t remain constant under stressful growing conditions. ‘Ultra Crimson Star’ passed the test and has been a very popular variety, with pure white stars on huge crimson grandiflora flowers.
Sticking with petunias, the introduction of the ‘Wave Purple’ petunia back in 1992 had a huge impact on the entire genus, leading to today’s supertunias. The Wave was the first petunia that grew along the ground like a ground cover, it was extremely vigorous and it flowered continuously. Wave petunias are still one of the most popular of all bedding plants.
Pansies were never the same after 1966, when ‘Majestic Giants Mix’ was introduced as an All-America Selection. It was a vigorous hybrid that performed well under diverse growing conditions and produced huge blooms that would set without cold temperatures. It also came in a huge range of colours, from blue, scarlet, cherry red, yellow and orange to pure white. You can still find ‘Majestic Giants Mix’ for sale in spring and fall in many garden centres over forty years after it first appeared.
While it is exciting to find, plant and evaluate new plants in the garden each year it’s nice to know that, like that old favourite song, we can fall back on the classics to perform well for us too. |
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| Posted by Art Knapp's Plantland at | | | |
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